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size=3D2>Joyce</FONT><
Hi All, June 6, 2008
I doubt that the moon would have any effect on frost at places
distant from the Minas Basin & Bay of Fundy. The full moon is a time of
frost hazard in the valley and near the Basin, other things being equal,
because low tide then coincides more or less with the coldest part of
the day, dawn.
[In the Cambridge, Kings Co. area, as I recall, a combination of no
clouds, calm air and full or near full moon before June 10 and after
Sept 10 were almost certain indicators of frost or near frost.] At low
tide the radiant heat from water will be minimal because the area of
water is minimal and the renewal of cold surface water by mixing with
warmer water from below will be minimal. I am aware of no measurements
or tabulations of this effect so my comments are based on subjective
observation & logic.
Plants can to some extent be protected from frost with frost caps,
provided there is time to set them in the evening and remove them just
after dawn, and by making sure the soil is moist at the surface. Good
frost caps can be made by removing the botton of a large glass bottle
using string, gasoline and water but it is a lot of work and such
bottles are now almost antiques. I expect a 2-L plastic milk jug with
the bottom cut our and pinned to the ground with wire staples would be
almost as good (transparent plastic I think offers no protection).
Protection will increase as ground area covered by the cap increases
because soil is the source of the heat. For low plants I think a cone of
tarpaper can be used.
I the 1940's I grew Cantalopes for home use but except for early
outliers they were ripened in the hay mow (ethylene effect). I expect a
few ripening tomatoes in a paper bag would also trigger Cantalope
ripening but in any case they need sun & heat to fruit.
One should not pick Common Lady's Slipper flowers in a small park or
small public place, out of consideration for those who may come by
later. But off the beaten track, there is no valid reason to not pick
them provided one is guided by the biology of the plant and avoids
unusually vigorous flowers.
Based on fairly detailed observations over 4 years, flowers with
scapes that are below average in height have zero prospect of setting a
capsule and forming seeds. As scape height increases appreciably beyond
average, then setting a capsule becomes increasingly possible but always
low (Height of scape (cm) to subtending bract of some that set a capsule
were: 51, 41, 33 & 42). If there are deer in the vicinity then some
flowers will be 'picked' by them, either pinched off as the plant
emerges (evidenced by truncated leaves with a stubby scape), or as a
dainty nibble of perianth only (evidenced by intact leaves and tall
flowerless scape) and deer prefer the more vigorous plants that have a
greater chance of setting fruit.
Children instinctively like to pick flowers and if some child (or
adult) wishes to do so, then why not ? There is nothing to lose and
everything to gain if they know not to pick the larger ones and know
why. If some child (or adult) can gain a better affinity with the
natural world by doing so then it is a flower (or fistfull of flowers)
well spent. And in addition they will come to appreciate that, to the
extent possible, actions should be guided by facts & knowledge as
opposed to hearsay and superstition.
Pollination is the key factor and even plants of average size can
set seeds if they are hand-pollinated. As it happens, I managed a few
hours in the woods today to pollinate some flowers (I went out June 4
also but it was too early). Today I found only 1/4 or so of the plants
ready. Timing is everything and in 2006 all hand-pollinated plants and
some plants from which I swiped pollen set a capsule. None set in 2007
because I was too late. When the anthers are ready, a cap that contains
waxy pollen comes away readily and will leave a smear on a small brush.
Rubbing this along the underside of the stigma will deposit some pollen
and, with luck, will effect fertilization.
Flowers this year are relatively small so I used a small swab made by
wrapping fly tying chenille around the ink tube of a ball point pen.
If you are too early and try too hard to extract pollen then the
entire anther is removed. If you are too late, then the distal surface
of the anther is less plump.
Yours truly, Dave Webster, Kentville
David&Jane Schlosberg wrote:
> Joyce, hi. You don't say where you are located, but I'm presuming
> somewhere near (Lower?) Sackville. There are lots of "mini-climates",
> so your situation, even presuming you're in the metro area (as we
> are), may be different from others'. We have seldom had much luck
> with cataloupes, except in the greenhouse. They have produced fruit
> outside, but it wasn't sweet. Peppers I know more about. If you have
> a good, maritime, short-season pepper variety, you can do reasonably
> well with them. The evil is when they bloom too early. Then, if
> there is a cold night, the blossoms fall off and no fruit develop.
> They need a very sunny, protected spot. Tomatoes are a bit more
> hardy. We put them out about now, with some bone meal to encourage
> fruiting. You can bury part of the stems, too, if your plants are
> tall. This encourages root growth and gives them a sturdier look. As
> for beans: they just don't come up until the soil is good and warm. I
> planted the scarlet runners a few days ago.
>
> I have never understood this moon thing. It seems totally without
> scientific basis. We just wait, watching the weather forcasts, until
> we have a stretch of warmish nights ahead and, at best, a cloudy day
> for planting. Any of you more scientific folks care to comment on the
> old "wisdom" about the moon phases and planting?
>
> Jan
>
> p.s. DO NOT PICK LADY SLIPPERS!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: naturens-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:naturens-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Joyce Norris
> Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 6:19 AM
> To: naturens@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: [NatureNS] when to plant / Lady's Slipper plants
>
> I was trying to find out when it is safe to put out annuals and
> plants like cantaloupes, peppers, tomatoes (i.e. actual plants not
> the seeds). I found a frost chart but there is no way I would have
> put these plants out going by that - in May. The plants I am
> wondering about are all less cold tolerant. Its not just frost per
> se. I already did the pansies, peas, beets, spinach, etc. but
> nothing like impatiens, beans, etc. I have some overachieving
> pansy plants that bloomed all winter for the l