As of Mon, 29 Apr 1996 10:20:59
This was posted to soc.culture.cornish by Jim Curto <jkcurto@tensornet.com>,
who also kindly sent a copy my way.
Pasty <Receipt>
Recently, I showed my mother some of the articles on pasties I found in
the archive of soc.culture.cornish. A few days later she gave me the
following and asked me to offer it it to the group. I can highly
recommend her pasties and am happy to have this "receipt" for my own
household. Here is Jane Ann Curto's article:
In response to Mr. Maclarin's and Mr. Hockin's correspondence regarding
recipes for a "delicious and authentic" Cornish pasty, please allow a
third generation Cornish-American to offer some comments, make some
observations and provide some suggestions. I feel qualified to do this
as my grandmother, Annie Gray Hocking, and my mother, Irene Hocking
Nicholls, made the most delicious and authentic pasties that I and
others decried to be unparalleled in all respects.
First, I doubt that a "receipt" (quote my Cornish grandmother) exists!
Pasty making is an ethnic "art-form" passed on from one generation to
the next. The quality of the product was not dependent on written
instructions but, rather on the skills and talents of the producer.
Unlike visual art, creative deviations and innovations were not to be
tolerated and the criteria for a perfect pasty were standard among its
judges. Furthermore, a competent "Cousin Jenny" (the American
colloquialism for the female counterpart of a "Cousin Jack" or Cornish
immigrant) cook rarely measured her ingredients. Except for determining
that one cup of flour was necessary for each extra-large, "Trammer-sized"
pasty, she scooped whatever amount was needed into a bowl and proceeded
from there. (Never more than enough for four or six pasties in a single
batch.) Adding a bit of salt to the four, she rubbed in whatever amount
of shortening (preferably lard) it took to make the mixture hold
together in her clenched palm and "felt right." From a pitcher, she
added water sparingly until the dough was just damp enough to shape into
a ball suitable for rolling, warning her apprentice, "Mind you not make
it wet and treat it kindly so it shan't be hard's a board. We're making
pasties, not shingles!"
Although I was taught to make pasties using my mentor's touchy-feely
techniques, I am more comfortable measuring and find the following
proportions and ingredients, if not as delicious as those of my
forebears, quite passable imitations.
The Pastry for the Crust (4-5 pasties)
3C all-purpose unbleached flour
1 teaspoon salt
1C (minus one tablespoon) solid vegetable shortening (Crisco)
3 tablespoons cold water
Work the shortening into the flour and salt with fingertips. Gradually
add water gently mixing. Form the dough into a ball and divide in four
(for a 12 inch pasty) or five for an 8 inch one) pieces. Gently roll
from the middle on a lightly floured surface to the size desired. Trim
the edges so that they are not scraggly. In the center of each circle,
leaving a three-quarter inch border, layer the following in this order:
one half to three-quarter cup peeled, finely sliced potato
one quarter to one half cup yellow turnip (rutabaga)
one half cup flank or well trimmed round steak cut in one inch strips
two tablespoons finely sliced yellow onion
one tablespoon copped fresh parsley (optional) salt and pepper to
taste
The Hard Part
Moisten the edges of pastry and lift two sides to the top and pinch
together. Using one hand to roll the pinched edges, use the other hand
to twist and tuck the roll into a rope-like "Cornish Crimp." Cut off any
excess dough from the ends making sure the cut edges are sealed. Do not
piece pastry! Place the assembled pasties on an ungreased baking sheet,
place in a preheated 425 degree Fahrenheit oven and bake for 10 minutes.
Reduce the oven temperature to 375 degrees and continue to bake for 45 -
50 minutes or until golden brown.
Remove from oven and immediately cut a tiny one-fourth inch triangle on
top of the crust. Using a funnel or baster, drop one teaspoon of very
hot water into the hole.
Cover with a clean towel ( no foil, plastic or paper!) and allow to rest
at least ten minutes before serving.
Comments, suggestions and admonitions.
There's little doubt that lard makes the tastiest and flakiest crust.
However in deference to concerns about ingesting saturated animal fat
(and chancing contracting Mad Cow Disease for you Brits!) Crisco solid
vegetable shortening) woks well. Replacing a tablespoon of it with a
tablespoon of finely ground suet is "some grand"!
Layering the filling is quintessential for authenticity. Just think
about those meat juices dripping onto what's below!
White baking potatoes produce a more mealy filling while red-skinned one
with their higher moisture content are more firm and juicier.
The choice of potatoes depends on one's preference but the choice of the
yellow vegetable must never ever be carrots! 'Their sweetness destroys
the characteristic hearty flavor of a pasty and as Mr. Hocken says, is a
sacrilege committed by non-believers of authenticity!
As was their country of origin, the crust for pasties is on the poor
side and not as rich as the crust for a dessert pie. the impoverishment
can be accomplished by slightly reducing (by two tablespoons the amount
of shortening in standard pie pastry recipe - not by adding water! That
mistake will result in a crust so hard and boardy it could survive a
fall down the deepest shaft!
The pastry maker must allow his or her good judgment too determine the
amount of filling a crust will hold. Unlike the human stomach that "will
hold all you mind to give it" even the best crust lack that elastic
capacity. Gilled to excess, the crowded and confined filling will
errantly poke out causing rents through which the steam and juices
escape causing a dried out pasty and a mess in the oven!
I treasure my Cornish heritage and try to perpetuate some of the customs
and traditions bequeathed to me by my forebears. It's my hope that some
of those, particularly the art of pasty-making, were to be best followed
in their native country. The poorest excuses for that taste treat
indigenous to Cornwall were served to me in restaurants there!
I have no idea who wrote the following but whoever did captured both an
"old - time Cornish miner's dialect and his passion for pasties!
I dearly luv a pasty,
a 'ot 'n' leaky wun
Weth taties, mayt 'n' turmit
Purs'ly 'n' honyun
Un crus be made with su't
"N' shaped like 'alf a moon,
Weth crinkly h'edges, freshly baked
"E' always gone too soon!"
- Jane Ann Nicholls Curto, U.S.A.
--
Jim Curto
Western Springs, Illinois
jkcurto@tensornet.com