C2C (flight & Day 1) Boring but good food & cool brews. Arrived midnight & went to various kennels in Vancouver. Rain Friday. Went to MEC and toured UBC (Norm went to Comedy Fest).

Day 1: 70 kms to Mission, B.C. 20 kms per hour, 2 x 7o hills, 1 km each. After Breakfast at Mickey Dee’s (familiar?) on the road starting point at 9:30 a.m. (Viking would be nuts!). Greg got us in Legion for cool brews & discovered there is a Legion in Hope, our next stop. (Could be a name developing here? Legionnaires?)

Vignettes: At coffee break, one woman said she had noticed us biking by every day (just a little ditsy!) Another woman upon hearing we were biking across Canada wanted to give us a donation!

Nancy: My knees hurt Greg: I’m too fast to be sweep Norm: I don’t sweat Bruce: And he doesn’t take his panniers into the grocery store either!

(ends) editor's note: if you don't want to receive this suff over the next 7 weeks, so sorry but I can't tamper with the sun god list--n.d. -- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

C2C Day 2 Mission to Hope, B.C. 84 kms, 21kms/hr. Top speed, 75.5 kms/hr. Flat with 3 good climbs (nothing serious). Sunny, hot, 29C

After a big (FREE) continental breakfast buffet, (everything but bacon & eggs on the menu but we are carbo tough. Saw Mt. Baker today, big & covered with snow, (Washington State) as we sped up the Fraser Valley. First touch of the Rockies. Followed the Fraser Valley (2 to 3 miles wide) winding through the mountains. Saw lots of cows, horses & corn. Lunch at Aggaziz.

Drove right into a Lions Club Antique Car Show. Greg, Norm and Nancy were excited. Big lunch break with lots of friendly people interested in us. Greg really excited about the speed downhill (75.5 kms). My helmet almost lifted off my head - must have been the short hair cut Birder gave me before I left.

We're now in the Rocky Mountains 3-4000' and climb tomorrow to Merrit through the Coquihalla Pass 110 kms, elevation 3600', sounds like a steady 8 degree grade. From what we hear, this will be the toughest of the 3 major climbs. Others are Rogers Pass and Kicking Horse Pass. Must be time for another bowl of beef stew.

Nancy W: mountains all around me - so pretty

Norm: I could just picture John Wayne riding into Aggiziz.

Bruce: I'm drinking 4 litres of water and still not copious.

Greg: Big salmon only $5.00 _ _ _ _!

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

C2C Day 3 Hope to Merrit, B.C., 125 kms, av speed 17 kms/hr; top speed 69 kms. Terrain: Mountains lst 30 km, some 4o with good downs, next 16 km up, 8o , elevation 3600; next 60 km to Merrit, elevation loss of 1600 ft. Actually included 3x5 km climbs of 4o to 5o . Sunny (very sunny) and hot (very hot) 30o C.

We are now in mountains. The hills were not as steep as top of Kinsman or Cancamangus (sp?) but they went on and on and on. Trip down from top was not down. It was up and down. Every time you were going down hill there would be a sign saying passing lane in 2 kms. It didn’t take long to figure out what that meant. It was a toll hwy – free for bikes but it took its toll!

Mountain Lady was the only biker whose sneakers did not touch the asphalt. Norm & Greg had to hoof it a bit to top & Bruce caught a flip for the top 3 kms. We all know the infamous sun god motor which keeps him warm when almost naked in winter. Take his motor, put it on the road for 125 kms, add 30o weather, total accumulative elevation of 5000’, consider his age, weight, pacemaker and fitness level – he deserved a break.

After 9.5 hrs in the saddle we arrived in Merrit. Decided very quickly not to cook but go out and be in bed by 8:00. Cold coke waiting for us – thanks to Norm. Laid in the pool for half hour. Off to Kamloops Tuesday – only 80 kms – O Joy.

Nancy: I need new brake pads – I’ve worn my old ones out.

Norm: I had a pb of 69 kms/hr

Greg: I’m too tired to remember what I said today.

Bruce: I’m wealy wealy tired.

(editor's note: degrees sign written in superscript in Word, doesn't seem to come out in e-mail (read 8 degrees not 80) - I hope this continues to be the least of my worries)

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

C2C Day 4 (post script to Day 3 temp was 37o in Merrit! Day 4 Merrit to Kamloops 103 kms – easy day? – 20 kms/hr; top sped irrelevant. Flat to downhill with one massive 11o climb of 3+ kms. Ouch! 35oC hot.

After much conversation, Mountain Lady, becoming know as mum, convinced us to go 5A at 12 kms further than #5 but more scenic and less uphills, theoretically. She is trying to take sungod’s job and is getting better at it. Nancy’s quote of the day: Men must listen to the voice of reason!

The ride was phenomenal. Basically spinning along Nicola Lake, 25 kms and Stump Lake, 10 kms. We could have finished earlier but as Dipper would say "we will fill the day.” After stopping and rubbernecking all over the place THE HILL appeared 20 kms from Kamloops. A big, long, winding, tough, hot 11% climb. Then to take away the fun, 9o and 7o downs into Kamloops had construction#*&^%$#!

It is hot. The motel said the grocery store was 2 blocks away – 20 minutes later we were there. It is hot. Greg is cooking goulash. Time for a cool brew.

Greg: I felt like I was going slow today.

Bruce: Fast enough as far as I was concerned.

Norm: I’m really disappointed with myself on the hills. Why do I have to walk?

Bruce said to take a gear course from Larry Sampson and then by a $50 bike. Greg said get a 3-speed.

Mtn Lady said not to be so hard on yourself.

On to Salmon Arm. Hope it doesn’t become Salmonella. Cheers, love & kisses.

Day 5 Kamloops to Salmon Arm 118 kms, 22/hr; 33oC hot & sunny Terrain: flat for 40% rolling hills (Aspotagan) for 40% and 5 good climbs (1x1.6 kmsx6%) (1x3kmsx4%) (1x3kmsx5%) 35o C

What was supposed to be an easy day turned out to be tough with heat becoming oppressive by midday. The mountains are all around us (none snow cap’d). We followed the Thompson River Valley with some rolling hills. It looked a lot like Cape Breton’s Margaree Valley only bigger. 2 flat tires – Grey was stapled and Norm was screwed. A long steep climb out of Chase. A long fairly steep climb out of Sorrento and an extremely long, hot, steep-enough climb out of Salmon Arm to our motel on the east side.

I must have lost 5 lbs of fluid but we’re closer to Halifax in the morning. The owner of this place, Bruno, is a polish survivor from the war and has been a butler, a baker (candlestick maker) and gave some good quotes. When I called and suggested the $85.00 was a bit over our budget, he said, “you shouldn’t spend so much on beer!” When we arrived and Nancy walked in, he said “You’re perfect, why do they like Barbara Streisand; she had a big nose.” The man hates everyone. “Why are North Americans so lazy? Look at me I’m 72.” He proceeded to do some jumping jacks in front of us. He outdoes Robert Sherburn.

Did I say it’s hot? The accumulation of 5 days of heat and hills make us look forward to our day off (probably Revelstoke on Friday).

Greg: I just ate too much, too fast

Norm: I’m going for an ice cream

Nancy: I’m worried about the lost, pregnant, Border Collie on the poster

Bruce: It’s too hot. I take off my white socks and it looks like they’re still on.

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

C2C Day 6 Salmon Arm to Revelstoke

99.6 km; 20.4 km/hr; 61 top speed. 250 C sunny and now humid. We saw the real snow caps today. The views are becoming magnificent and we are only in the foothills. After 2 nice climbs of around 3 kms from Salmon Arm to Sicamous, one giving the sun god a 61 km/hr downhill but no where near the Gaspe 91, the other a long steep run was under construction – very disappointing. We are calling this an easy day but compared to 2 loops of Bayswater, given a scale of 2 out of 10, today would be a 5 or 6.

Lunch was spend sitting in a park surrounded by 3 valleys and 3 mountain ranges, placed like spokes of a wheel, aptly called 3 Valley Camp. Everyone is drinking at least 3 or 4 litres of water plus eating lots of fruit.

All are generally tired and looking forward to tomorrow off - touring Revelstoke Dam and maybe going for a run (HA). Biggest problem now is trying to ratio our fitness levels, the climbs involved, the distances between motels, and not having too long or too short a day between Revelstoke and Banff (180 miles). Really looking forward to the climb up Rogers Pass. It can’t be worse than the one up Coquihalla and the views will be stupendous.

We saw our first train tunnel, saw our first avalanche field where the sign says “Be Careful, there may be unexploded bombs.” Saw the site of The Last Spike at Craigellachie (remember this for July 1 next year). Pierre Berton was not there.

Hit our 2nd Legion to replenish fluids. Made the rule that we have to visit Legions at least 30% on the time to maintain our name of Gonzo Legionnaires. Revelstoke is beautiful, surrounded by big mountains. Population 9000. Eat out Chinese tonight (buffet). As Byron Smith would say “See you at the top.”

Greg: I almost getting squished with the narrow shoulders on the bridges.

Bruce: I wish I were in shape or at least young or both.

Norm: I don’t remember Bruce passing me on the hill. (passed him once)

Nancy: 3 beer and I can’t remember my quote.

............................................... editor's note: be sure to check out theGozno page for Dipper's excellent maps; adds a whole new dimension. thanx to J.B. for the idea of a binder for these stories

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

C2C Day 7 Revelstoke lay-about

What can you say about a layabout day? Arose late. Some ate in; some ate out. Did a well-needed laundry, biked around town, visited shops (packages were mailed home. Gordon – DO NOT open.) Lunch in park with the big grizzly bears. Biked 4 kms up to Revelstoke Dam and took the free tour. Dam was big and impressive – lots of cement. Back to town to railroad museum. $6.00 and Nancy was the only one to go in – must be on Gordon’s budget!

Spagetthi carbo load tonight and then the fun (?) will be begin. Saturday to climb up Rogers Pass to stay at a hostel in Donald (as in Duck) 120 kms. Sunday to climb again up through Kicking Horse Pass to stay at a lodge in Lake Louise $$$ ($120 for we four – includes breakfast). Monday on to Banff – 55 kms. will be a real touring day. Tuesday to Calgary. The rest day has us rejuvenated; the mountains have us intimidated and excited. Really looking forward to tomorrow: is this the highlight of the 6000 kms?

Nancy: When a bicycle falls in the middle of the night in a motel room full of exhausted people and nobody wakes up, does it make a noise?

Bruce: After you bike around a town 14 times, it is too small to live there.

…………………… editor’s comment: Group promises better quotes tomorrow.

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

C2C Day 8 Revestoke to Donald Station

128 kms; 18 kms/hr; 69.5 top speed; 13to25C; sunny & hot & dry

This is the toughest day so far and it had nothing to do with Rogers Pass. On the road at our usual 6:00 a.m., we followed the Illecillewaet River (up) for 66 kms, through Revelstoke National Park and into Glacier National Park. Some flats, lots of gradual ups and 3 serious 3 kms of 4%. We proceeded up Rogers Pass, a 4km 6% climb that was tough enough but not that bad. It claimed no causalities and no sneakers touched the pavement!

After doing the tourist thing at the souvenir shop at the top the fun began – at least what we thought would be fun. What was told to us to be downhill to Donald Station, 50+ kms away, turned out to be 15 kms of a great down, 20 kms of up and down, 1 real tough 5 km, 6% climb, and another 2km climb before Donald. We are really beat up. Just before Donald, Bruce noticed Nancy’s back tire was half flat. We pumped it up and it has lost very little air. No wonder she found the last 2 hours tough. Finally arrived at our hostel/motel after 9.5 hrs in the saddle. Neat place, old, shacky, workmen’s type building. Our room 2 double beds, 1 table, 1 chair, will be $40.00. Common showers we share with 10 heli-loggers. They’ve got a better machine than the Sea Kings.

We went to supper at the only show in town. Simple menu: Chicken burgers, vegi burgers, or kabobs. Great food and conversation. Neat stuff. Went through the time zone. Mountains were awesome and spectacular. Saw actual glaciers, the motel and café, waterfalls everywhere, biking through places only in books, like Revelstoke and Glacier. Bear signs (no bears). Met a guy on a recumbent, doing 250 kms a day who passed us. (Going in the same direction.)

Greg: I’m getting high on my vitamin I

Bruce: I’m hurtin’ real bad but I’m movin’….real slow.

Nancy: If you just keep looking at the ground it looks flat. And why is it that all the male cyclists on the road are so damn good looking?

Norm: (hard to get a quote from him, he’s always 1 km ahead of us)

On to Lake Louise tomorrow. Another tough day, going over the great divide

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

C2C Day 9 Donald Station to Wapta Lake

95 kms today (to pass 800 kms); 16 kms/hr; 11C a.m.; 25C p.m., cloudy.

After seeing off the heliloggers in their helicopter we peddled an easy 25 kms to breakfast. Then the work began. An instant 8%, 1.5 km hill out of Golden suggested the day might be tough. After a downhill, we had to climb 5% for 6 kms (ouch!) through the Kicking Horse Canyon – really difficult for the old bodies. After a few more kms, how about a 4 km climb, 1x3%; 1x7%, and 2x8% (double ouch!). Now at 50 kms of a 95 km day, and Kicking Horse Pass still to come, we were pretty intimidated as we entered Yoho National Park. Ranger Rickette said that the next 30 kms to Field and the start of Kicking Horse was basically flat. Bang on! Cruising through the Rockies at 22 kms/hr!!

Now the Kicking Horse: 8 kms of 5% but not too bad; no causalities; no sneakers touched the ground except for photos. We arrived at Wapta Lake just as the skies opened and it poured! Great timing! We are presently sitting on top of the continental divide having a cool brew and pizza. They say it’s all down here to the Atlantic – if you’re a river!

The Rockies (and we are now actually in them) are awesome, indescribable and better than the pictures in books. The vote is 4-0 that Coquihalla was by far the toughest day. We are not agreed as to the toughest climb.

Nancy: I don’t think my diet is going well.

Greg: I think we should be eating more.

Norm: Bring on more hills! I’m definitely stronger than when we started.

Bruce: Norm snores and we haven’t decided weather to put cotton in our ears or a pillow over his head.

Tomorrow: Dead Man’s Flat, east of Kanmore (“I’m Mike.”)

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

C2C Day 10 Wapta Lake BC to Dead Man’s Flat, Ab.

112 kms; speed: various; 7 to 25C, sunny

Our last day in the Rockies turned out to be one of the best. After a great omelet breakfast (free), at least part of the $120/night fee, we were off. 7C and land fog over the lake. Stopped in 20 minutes at the Great Continental Divide, at the top of Kicking Horse Pass, 9480’. At the Divide we put our feet in a stream that split in two, one going 1950 kms to the Pacific Ocean via the Colorado River, and the other going east, 2550 kms to the Atlantic via Hudson Bay. We then tooled along a back road to Lake Louise, some hoping to see animals, scared to death (only of the bears).

At Lake Louise, we made the obligatory trip to the Chateau, took the obligatory photos of the lake, along with 10m other Japanese tourists. Actually it was very beautiful – just too bad other people knew about it also.

Now it’s off to Banff on the Trans Canada. Slight downhill, slight tail wind, grooving along at 30 - 35 kms/hr. Av. 28.8 kms for the first 30 kms. We then changed over to the 1A at the request from the Voice of Reason. Now we’re on a smaller, slower road, some ups and downs. BUT the VOR is right again. 5 Bighorn male sheep about 15’ away. 2 elk within a whisper, about 15 Bighorn female sheep and their babies. A colony of Pika and one cute gopher.

Over and above all this the mountains are still there. All around us, big and beautiful. We lunched in downtown Banff buying meat, cheese and bread at the local Save Easy and sitting on the curb looking in the windows at the expensive cafes, and making faces at the Japanese and Germans, enjoying the ambience. Back onto the Trans Canada, more downhill, slight grade, maybe 3% with a tail wind. To Kanmore! Woosh! Greg’s training as our onsite mechanic came into use today as he broke and then replaced 2 spokes on the road. He magically tuned the wheel enough to limp into Kanmore. Luck was with us; a good bike shop was there and open on a holiday Monday and got us on the road again. It was great to see Kanmore, made famous by the RCAF – “I’m Mike…”

Green Acres cottage is a lovely spot tucked in the foothills. This was a fairly easy day, 112 kms but lots of non-pedaling. We discovered what they call here as Texas Bridges; 4” horizontal pipes, spaced 6” apart, across the road, forming a bridge deck. Its purpose has nothing to do with the snow but is to keep animals from crossing. Its secondary purpose is killing unwary bikers. Another bridge we happened to be standing under to watch the long horn sheep and when we said, “Isn’t this beautiful?” Greg said, “Yes,” When we looked at him – he was looking at the superstructure.

Nancy: You know there’s an engineer in the group when he ogles the bridge while we ogle the wildlife.

Norm: I stood 5’ from the elk and 5” from Kanmore Debbie. (Both excited him.)

Bruce: Without bragging, I am extremely pleased with how my body worked over the 1000 kms in BC.

Tomorrow we’ll be in Calgary. Another easy (??) 100 km ride into Tornado country where we will try to accumulate mileage

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

C2C Day 11 DMF to Calgary

115 kms; 22 kms/hr; 9 to 25C - and still sunny

What can you say about another day on the asphalt? Pedaled through the foothills of the Rockies to Calgary. Slight headwind, mostly from the side, slight downhill with a couple of Magazine Hills. Cruising at times at 32 kms/hr.

Staying at Gordon Warnica’s brothers in Calgary – and we’re lost in a real house with own bed’s – kind of surreal. Norm said he was sorry to see the mountains behind us (that’s because we couldn’t keep up on the hills but now we’re going to pound him on the flats!). Greg noted, as an Engineer, the roads are starting to look mundane. Easy day. (Am I saying that 115kms is an easy day?). Greg, Nancy and Norm have gone to see a movie and get groceries. Bruce wants the GOTrain to downtown Calgary -and MEC! BBQ -Alberta steak -for supper.

Tomorrow to Brooks, Alberta, taking back roads. We think distance is 170 kms. It will be our first big mileage day. Early start req’d. Thurs. is Medicine Hat only 110 kms.

Bruce: I’m looking forward to being alone in downtown Calgary! (and the other chickens have flown the coop).

-- The Sun god

C2C Day 10 Wapta Lake BC to Dead Man’s Flat, Ab.

112 kms; speed: various; 7 to 25C, sunny

Our last day in the Rockies turned out to be one of the best. After a great omelet breakfast (free), at least part of the $120/night fee, we were off. 7C and land fog over the lake. Stopped in 20 minutes at the Great Continental Divide, at the top of Kicking Horse Pass, 9480’. At the Divide we put our feet in a stream that split in two, one going 1950 kms to the Pacific Ocean via the Colorado River, and the other going east, 2550 kms to the Atlantic via Hudson Bay. We then tooled along a back road to Lake Louise, some hoping to see animals, scared to death (only of the bears).

At Lake Louise, we made the obligatory trip to the Chateau, took the obligatory photos of the lake, along with 10m other Japanese tourists. Actually it was very beautiful – just too bad other people knew about it also.

Now it’s off to Banff on the Trans Canada. Slight downhill, slight tail wind, grooving along at 30 - 35 kms/hr. Av. 28.8 kms for the first 30 kms. We then changed over to the 1A at the request from the Voice of Reason. Now we’re on a smaller, slower road, some ups and downs. BUT the VOR is right again. 5 Bighorn male sheep about 15’ away. 2 elk within a whisper, about 15 Bighorn female sheep and their babies. A colony of Pika and one cute gopher.

Over and above all this the mountains are still there. All around us, big and beautiful. We lunched in downtown Banff buying meat, cheese and bread at the local Save Easy and sitting on the curb looking in the windows at the expensive cafes, and making faces at the Japanese and Germans, enjoying the ambience. Back onto the Trans Canada, more downhill, slight grade, maybe 3% with a tail wind. To Kanmore! Woosh! Greg’s training as our onsite mechanic came into use today as he broke and then replaced 2 spokes on the road. He magically tuned the wheel enough to limp into Kanmore. Luck was with us; a good bike shop was there and open on a holiday Monday and got us on the road again. It was great to see Kanmore, made famous by the RCAF – “I’m Mike…”

Green Acres cottage is a lovely spot tucked in the foothills. This was a fairly easy day, 112 kms but lots of non-pedaling. We discovered what they call here as Texas Bridges; 4” horizontal pipes, spaced 6” apart, across the road, forming a bridge deck. Its purpose has nothing to do with the snow but is to keep animals from crossing. Its secondary purpose is killing unwary bikers. Another bridge we happened to be standing under to watch the long horn sheep and when we said, “Isn’t this beautiful?” Greg said, “Yes,” When we looked at him – he was looking at the superstructure.

Nancy: You know there’s an engineer in the group when he ogles the bridge while we ogle the wildlife.

Norm: I stood 5’ from the elk and 5” from Kanmore Debbie. (Both excited him.)

Bruce: Without bragging, I am extremely pleased with how my body worked over the 1000 kms in BC.

Tomorrow we’ll be in Calgary. Another easy (??) 100 km ride into Tornado country where we will try to accumulate mileage

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

C2C Day 11 DMF to Calgary

115 kms; 22 kms/hr; 9 to 25C - and still sunny

What can you say about another day on the asphalt? Pedaled through the foothills of the Rockies to Calgary. Slight headwind, mostly from the side, slight downhill with a couple of Magazine Hills. Cruising at times at 32 kms/hr.

Staying at Gordon Warnica’s brothers in Calgary – and we’re lost in a real house with own bed’s – kind of surreal. Norm said he was sorry to see the mountains behind us (that’s because we couldn’t keep up on the hills but now we’re going to pound him on the flats!). Greg noted, as an Engineer, the roads are starting to look mundane. Easy day. (Am I saying that 115kms is an easy day?). Greg, Nancy and Norm have gone to see a movie and get groceries. Bruce wants the GOTrain to downtown Calgary -and MEC! BBQ -Alberta steak -for supper.

Tomorrow to Brooks, Alberta, taking back roads. We think distance is 170 kms. It will be our first big mileage day. Early start req’d. Thurs. is Medicine Hat only 110 kms.

Bruce: I’m looking forward to being alone in downtown Calgary! (and the other chickens have flown the coop).

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

C2C Day 12 - Calgary to Brooks

175 kms; 22kms/hr; 9C to 32C

A couple of milestones. Yesterday we went past 1000kms. Today we did the true century (100 miles plus).

Now out of the mountains; road from Calgary to Brooks through the Alberta Plains. I would say the area is flat except I am told this is hilly compared to the prairies. Followed 22X-901 out of SE Calgary to Gleichen. 70 kms flat no wind, average speed 24 kms/hr. Had breakfast at Siksika Nation (Blackfoot Tribe reservation) served by a Chinese cook. On to the Trans Canada and a potentially fast 95 kms to Brooks. Potential is the key word here because there was no tail wind, lots of side wind and headwind the last 10 k. Also hot, sunny and rolling hills. This would be a tough day. We stopped our usual 5 mins every hour and hydrated at every opportunity. Had lunch at the Bosano, sitting outside, in the shade of the gas station billboard – right out of the twilight zone. At 100 kms we stopped and followed a well-known ritual. Actually it probably isn’t that well known since Greg & Claudia did it before – I’m sure there are others.

This was a full day and we are all very pleased - saw our first oil pump today.

Nancy: I don’t brake on prairie hills. (She got 52 kms/hr once)

Norm: You don’t know how big a country is until you try to bike it.

Bruce: As I address post cards and hear nice comments coming back via the Birder, I realize how much I miss the other Gonzos.

Greg: I have to go tighten my seat (and I’ve discovered .5% Beer.)

On to Medicine Hat tomorrow, a flat 100 kms. Should be there about dinner (3pm). If anyone wants to call, its: 403 529 6454

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

C 2 C, Day 13 Thursday, August 10 Brooks, AB to Medicine Hat, AB

115 km 27km/h sunny, tailwind 15 k/h 12*C to 30*C

Cruisin in cowboy/oil country;

Howse she goin back there, eh! Nice to be fondling a keyboard again.

Just think about it, flying at 28.4 k/h throught the Alberta plains.- some very long, but very low % sections which slowed us down to 25/26.

If I haven't said flat this will be the only time. It is FLAT.

I did one 10 minute section, basically holding 40 k/h, within my aerobic capacity, until my legs said whoa.

After breakfast, at a real back country diner in Suffold, our pace slowed the last 50km, our final day average a neat 27 k/h.

The panarama is very flat but we hear Sask. is flater. Looks like great grazing plains land, but no cattle around--perhaps theyr'e all in Chicago getting their throats cut. Actually it turns out to be a military shelling zone.

Saw some antlope, a couple prairie dogs (cute), and a long long long train. (and you can see it for a long time)

We are presently sitting around a swimming pool (high noon), having a brewski at an Acadia friend of Nancys where we are staying the night. Nancy feel its Bizarre, swimming in someones pool who isn't even home at the time, their daughter hiding in her room, and wer'e supposed to be roughing it on the dirty road.

We are looking at today as our day off. Nice when you can do 115 km on an off day. Are hoping to get distances up to 140/150 on average between here and Winnepeg.

Two concerns:

-Not sure how daily accumulation of miles will affect us, we don't want to wear down., and also must be aware of everyones early morning values. Also it will be hot and sunny.

-They haven't been sticking the motels in exactly the right places and we don't wish for too short or long a day. FUN is a key word here.

In another couple weeks, probably around the time Nancy will be flying home from Toronto, We will have to be looking in finite detail at our required itinery. Greg has to be to work Sept.18, and the options are various according to where we are and when we are there. Posibilty of him taking a train if way behind, going Montreal to Portland, or Bar Harbour, or splitting up (not a good option) and going different routes.

The mountains were tough but a lot of fun. Two days in Alberta indicate the next 7-10 days through the prairies will be as much mental as physical. I know this AM I wasn't as excited as getting into the saddle as yesterday. The scenery just goes on forever, never changing, at first neat but then ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZz.

Our host Jay says "You have to appreciate the suttle nuances of the prairies."

One of the suttle nuances this morning was the the dark menacing clouds over our right shoulder. They had some of us a bit concerned. We have been told that tornados come from the SW and all joking aside, there have been some serious happenings here in recent days.

Tommorrow it's off to Thompson, SK., 150? km, population 201, a new province and a new time zone--down to 2 hours difference. We are staying at the "THOMPSON HOTEL", 6 rooms. Sounds like we are in the middle of nowhere and talking to the owner/bartender last night he is "looking forward to meeting us." ??????????????????

Cheers, love and kisses to all.

THE Sungod

C2C Day 14 Medicine Hat to Tompkins (Ab to Sask)

145 kms; 16 kms/hr for first 50; 23ksm/hr last 50; 19 – 25C cloudy

Subtle nuances of the prairies, Jay said! Subtle as a kick in the face when you start off with a 20 km/hr side wind. The first 2 hours to Irvine was tough and we had visions of a very late finish. As things turned out, the last 60 kms of the day gave us a nice tail wind but this did not take away from the ups – long but not too steep and it seemed no downs. We are still in the rolling plains. We were very lucky with weather today – extreme dark clouds and heavy rain all around us but other than a mere sprinkle, we were untouched.

What can you say about Tomkins, Saskatchewan? Pop 201, 3 streets and we got lost. The rooms we booked at the local hotel/bar had, to our luck, a reservation screwup and ours was gone. We ended up in a real dumpy place on the highway, 100 times better but still a dump and cheap ($32.).

Nancy: The trains are like a ribbon across the land

Drug free Normie took a couple of Vitamin I and said he had to hurry back to the motel before they wore off.

When I mentioned to Greg, it might be a late day, he said “As Murphy always says – fill the day – besides I can only drink so much beer.”

Greg also noted that his neck feels like he carried too many canoes over too many portages.

With 50 kms to go and 2 o’clock in the afternoon, Greg said, “We can make it.” Then with a quizzical look on his face “We have no choice – we’re in the middle of nowhere.”

To show how sharp we are, we all changed our watches at the Alberta/Sask. Border, to later realize we don’t change them until the Sask/Man border. To top it off we all felt real good when we changed them back, like we gained an hour.

The sky was so different – dark clouds and colours everywhere – potential tornadoes.

Just before going to bed at 8:30, a 5-minute prairie storm came through – torrential rain, high winds, knocked over my bike.

--------- editor's comments: sorry no posting last night - trouble with MTT - does anyone know where Birder can find a good telephone man? Bruce is concerned about me typing in Word and pasting into his e-mail: does anyone have trouble opening? Pictures are, they say, in the mail. XXXXX

-- The Sun god

C2C Day 14 Medicine Hat to Tompkins (Ab to Sask)

145 kms; 16 kms/hr for first 50; 23ksm/hr last 50; 19 – 25C cloudy

Subtle nuances of the prairies, Jay said! Subtle as a kick in the face when you start off with a 20 km/hr side wind. The first 2 hours to Irvine was tough and we had visions of a very late finish. As things turned out, the last 60 kms of the day gave us a nice tail wind but this did not take away from the ups – long but not too steep and it seemed no downs. We are still in the rolling plains. We were very lucky with weather today – extreme dark clouds and heavy rain all around us but other than a mere sprinkle, we were untouched.

What can you say about Tomkins, Saskatchewan? Pop 201, 3 streets and we got lost. The rooms we booked at the local hotel/bar had, to our luck, a reservation screwup and ours was gone. We ended up in a real dumpy place on the highway, 100 times better but still a dump and cheap ($32.).

Nancy: The trains are like a ribbon across the land

Drug free Normie took a couple of Vitamin I and said he had to hurry back to the motel before they wore off.

When I mentioned to Greg, it might be a late day, he said “As Murphy always says – fill the day – besides I can only drink so much beer.”

Greg also noted that his neck feels like he carried too many canoes over too many portages.

With 50 kms to go and 2 o’clock in the afternoon, Greg said, “We can make it.” Then with a quizzical look on his face “We have no choice – we’re in the middle of nowhere.”

To show how sharp we are, we all changed our watches at the Alberta/Sask. Border, to later realize we don’t change them until the Sask/Man border. To top it off we all felt real good when we changed them back, like we gained an hour.

The sky was so different – dark clouds and colours everywhere – potential tornadoes.

Just before going to bed at 8:30, a 5-minute prairie storm came through – torrential rain, high winds, knocked over my bike.

--------- editor's comments: sorry no posting last night - trouble with MTT - does anyone know where Birder can find a good telephone man? Bruce is concerned about me typing in Word and pasting into his e-mail: does anyone have trouble opening? Pictures are, they say, in the mail. XXXXX

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 15 Tompkins to Herbert/Sask.

128 kms; 23 kms/hr; 15-25C cloudy

Quietly felt Tompkins with threatening skies, a tail wind (!) Moved quickly through the day; breakfast at Gull Lake; lunch at Swift Current, arriving at our motel in Hebert (a small, rich, Memonite community of 284). The Lone Eagle Motel, a small, neat, Swiss family operated with wagon train flower pots on the ground and an Alpaca Farm where they use the hair to weave blankets, coats, jackets.

Today was the perfect ride, some rolling hills. We rode the Trans Canada but there was almost no traffic. We guessed no one ever comes to Saskatchewan. People in Alberta go to BC and in Manitoba they must go to the states! We are now seeing wheat fields for as far as you can see. Went by fields with so many bales of hay – Greg said it looked like the Friendly Giant had spilled his shredies. Bernie’s right about the music – there are only 2 types here – country and western. We actually saw a stampede – about 50 cattle – but it was quite a sight moving at what we thought to be 30 kms/hr.

A milestone happened at Swift Current when we went over 1000 miles. The woman at the motel, when she had a conversation with Nancy, wondered about the sleeping arrangement with 3 other men. Did we sometimes have 2 rooms? She was concerned about “3horny men” – Nancy said she felt quite safe after 150 kms.

Today was the first time we seemed to ride together in a pack, and are presently having a Chinese team dinner – this is getting scary. On to Belle Plain tomorrow – population 64 – at Chubby’s Gas Station and Motel somewhere between Moose Jaw and Regina.

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 16 Hebert to Belle Plain

157 kms (3 short of 100 miles) av. 17/kms/hr (morning average 15 kms/hr with headwind!!!)

Tough day! The first 70 kms were 15 kms/hr – real exhausting. Scenery was probably nice but looking mostly at the pannier and asphalt in front of me. Sask. is not flat, the downhills seem flat, but flat seems uphill and the uphills were uphill. Nancy said she felt she was climbing out of Saskatchewan. There are lots of gradual ups but there didn’t seem to be downs on the other side. We must be close to 10,000’ elevation. For the first time on the trip Greg is not impressed with the shoulders on the highway – he said Sask. must be poorer than Nova Scotia.

There is still no traffic on the Trans Canada. There are still hardly any houses to be seen but we’re getting closer to Regina – maybe somebody lives there. The most common roadkill on highway has been antelope. Sask is bird lover’s paradise with lots of water and ponds. Went by 2 big 10-km lakes, lots of birds. The buffalo have roamed though.

Did I say the wind was tough? We are in Belle Plain, pop: 64, just west of Regina at Chubby’s Gas Station, Motel and Bar. A Lighthouse (stripbar here) bimbo in a Superwoman T-Shirt served us. Get the picture? Not much more to say. Not much to say in the first place – 11 hours spent on the road and 7:00 is time for bed. Good night.

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 17 Belmain to Wolseley

148 kms, 1st 50k at 28 kms/hr, overall 26.5 kms/hr. Sunny

Did I say tail wind? If yesterday was the pit, today was the peach. We woke up to see the gas station flat snapping in the opposite direction from when we went to bed. This is what I dreamed about all year. – That magic vacuum when you don’t feel the wind at your back, nor the breeze in your fact. It was about 27 kms/hr. (A 27 km tailwind). WOOSH!

Later in the day, with Nancy leading we cruised at 37 kms/hr. After yesterday, it is nice to be sitting around, mid afternoon, eating rolls and drinking tea, knowing we still got in 150 kms and are getting a well-needed rest. We are finally back to kitchen facilities and looking forward to spagetthi and salad. Time to do post cards and journals and contemplate what the prairies will give us over the next few days. The license plate here says “The Living Sky” and we have found in 3 days the prairie weather controls us in what we’re able to do. We feel powerless.

Plan to be in Winnipeg on Fri, 18th, dropping down to the US of A through Minn., Wisc.,& Mich. then back into Ont. at the Sioux. ---------------

editor: phone# for tomorrow (Gordon, Robert et al) is 204 845 2505

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 18 Wolseley to Alcorn, Manitoba

161 kms, 100 miles, 26.2 kms/hr. Sunny (again) 9-22C. Milestone 2000 kms.

Another day on the ribbon of asphalt. As we jumped eagerly on our bikes at 6:15, the flag hung loosely on the pole. Norm, when asked which way the wind was blowing, said, “I can’t see the pole!” No sooner had we started to pedal, you could notice the wheat bending to the east – a good sign. We soon were spinning along at 27 kms/hr.

Each day seems to follow a basic pattern – up at 5:30 (revolving bathroom), eat muffin, brownie, yogurt, etc., on the road at 6:15, stop for breakfast in 1.5 hrs, stop every hour, walk around the bike, on again. Lunch, usually sandwich and fruit around 10:30/11, ride until motel, usual 3 or 4, shower, get groceries, cook supper or go out to eat, lights out at 8:30 (actually haven’t turned the lights on yet), up at 5:30. Some of the places, which are already forgotten, are sleepy, small towns.

Breakfast this a.m. treated us with a wall of smoke as we entered & Greg said, “Oh, I haven’t smoked in a long time.” Lots of seagulls – they must have closed the dump in Mt. Uniacke. Lots of Red Tail Hawks. I have never seen so many bubblegum machines over the urinals in washrooms, all decorated with “nice” looking girls.

Everyone is suffering some minor hurts – a couple of sore necks, 4 sore butts, upper arms are tight, some chaffing on the inner thigh, nothing debilitating. Smile of last night: our door was near the office door and around 9 pm, all in bed, some big guys in motorcycles walked into our room. (Were they looking for the office or just attracted to spandex?)

Our favourite meal seems to be spagetthi.

Norm said his worst memory was walking in the Coquihalla pass.

Greg says showering is a big part of the day. Talk of irregularity is becoming a regular topic. Why are we here?

Nancy says: The challenge to do it. Norm says: To get home on a $25 bike. (sg’s comment: and $500 accessories)

Greg: Just a great way to see the country.

Bruce: Why not? When Gordon suggested it a year ago it a year ago, it just happened.

-- The Sun god

Day 18 Wolseley to Elkhorn, Manitoba

161 kms, 100 miles, 26.2 kms/hr. Sunny (again) 9-22C. Milestone 2000 kms.

Another day on the ribbon of asphalt. As we jumped eagerly on our bikes at 6:15, the flag hung loosely on the pole. Norm, when asked which way the wind was blowing, said, “I can’t see the pole!” No sooner had we started to pedal, you could notice the wheat bending to the east – a good sign. We soon were spinning along at 27 kms/hr.

Each day seems to follow a basic pattern – up at 5:30 (revolving bathroom), eat muffin, brownie, yogurt, etc., on the road at 6:15, stop for breakfast in 1.5 hrs, stop every hour, walk around the bike, on again. Lunch, usually sandwich and fruit around 10:30/11, ride until motel, usual 3 or 4, shower, get groceries, cook supper or go out to eat, lights out at 8:30 (actually haven’t turned the lights on yet), up at 5:30. Some of the places, which are already forgotten, are sleepy, small towns.

Breakfast this a.m. treated us with a wall of smoke as we entered & Greg said, “Oh, I haven’t smoked in a long time.” Lots of seagulls – they must have closed the dump in Mt. Uniacke. Lots of Red Tail Hawks. I have never seen so many bubblegum machines over the urinals in washrooms, all decorated with “nice” looking girls.

Everyone is suffering some minor hurts – a couple of sore necks, 4 sore butts, upper arms are tight, some chaffing on the inner thigh, nothing debilitating. Smile of last night: our door was near the office door and around 9 pm, all in bed, some big guys in motorcycles walked into our room. (Were they looking for the office or just attracted to spandex?)

Our favourite meal seems to be spagetthi.

Norm said his worst memory was walking in the Coquihalla pass.

Greg says showering is a big part of the day. Talk of irregularity is becoming a regular topic. Why are we here?

Nancy says: The challenge to do it. Norm says: To get home on a $25 bike. (sg’s comment: and $500 accessories)

Greg: Just a great way to see the country.

Bruce: Why not? When Gordon suggested it a year ago it a year ago, it just happened.

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 19 Elkhorn to Carberry, Man.

151 kms, 20.3 kms hr cloudy,12-18C

Tough day, long and windy. Day started with flag pointing west and skies ominous and foreboding. After coffee it rained hard and we had a head wind for 45 mins. Very cold. Side winds the rest of the day from 2 o’clock angle. Greg says these are the worst roads in Canada, no paved shoulder. Lots of wheat fields today. Everyone feels they are tired and getting beat up but we are really getting stronger and tougher. 2-mile long hill, not too steep, near the end of the day was attacked by all and no one geared down. Looking forward to day off in Winnipeg.

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 20 Carberry to Winnipeg, Man.

159 kms, (2 kms short of 100 miles – we don’t cheat!) 23 kms/hr, sunny, warm, tail wind/side wind.

Today makes biking worthwhile. After coffee & toast at 6 a.m., we grazed and spun our way to Winnipeg. (We had lunch at least 3 times!) Greg says another day of the worst roads with no shoulders. Great scenery with fields all over the place; wheat, barley, canola and sunflowers. Nancy had a couple of good comments last night: “At the end of a hard day, my legs don’t work anymore unless I’m on the bike.” As a comment on the motels we are staying in, (I was asked to be frugal) “You know you’re in a classy joint when you turn on the shower and the toilet gurgles!”

The ride was made enjoyable because we were doing more hills, at last. (Not steep but using more muscles.) Arrived in Winnipeg to stay with another Warnica relative – and thanks should be noted. Calgary thanks to Gordon’s brother for the use of their house. Medicine Hat thanks to Wendy, an old Acadian friend of Nancy’s for the use of their pool and a steak dinner. Winnipeg thanks to Gordon’s sister, Madeline, for the use of their home for 2 nights and for a vehicle to tour Winnipeg and lots of food – many thanks.

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 21 Winnipeg – Day off

A sleep in until 7:30 – lovely! Nancy spent the day visiting various relatives. Bruce, Norman and Greg, given use of a SUV, ran errands and toured Winnipeg. Bike-shopped for new tires as Greg has worn out his back one. Finally had a Timmies!

Toured The Forks, one of 2 attractions in Winnipeg where the Red and Assiniboine Rivers come together – a nice park and entertainment area. Toured the Royal Canadian Mint, the other attraction. At night topped off with a roast chicken dinner – many thanks to our host.

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 22 Winnipeg to East Braintree

143 kms; 19.1 kms/hr; brisk headwind all day, cloudy, 13-19C & humid.

Sad day. It was with very heavy heart we left Winnipeg at 6:15 a.m., leaving behind 25% of our team and 60% of our personality. We knew the day Nancy would have to leave to go back to work would arrive all too soon but we expected at least another 5 or 6 days. However, the logistics of picking up a bus around Thunder Bay, simple at first glance, would include a 21-hour bus ride to Toronto and more administration. At it turns out the cost of a bus in Thunder Bay is equal to a cost of a ticket from Winnipeg. A no-brainer but very sad sitting around the house last night and this morning.

The ride was tough but very uneventful. For the first 65 kms we had a brisk wind directly in our faces. Through Winnipeg and into the hinterland (resulting in a pace of 18 kms/hr). The remainder of the day had either a head or side wind, allowing us to pick up our average to a whole 19 kms/hr. We are now getting into the woods and the last few kms were quite similar to New Glasgow. If we have headwinds through Ontario, (btw, our route now is Thunder Bay, Sault Ste. Marie, North Bay, etc), it will be tough in the north.

We have finally seen bedrock – the first since the Rockies. At a nice cooling shower around noon we noted lack of rain has been phenomenal!

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 23 East Braintree, Man., to Low Bow, Man. (15 kms east of Kenora)

101 kms, 19.8 kms/hr, rain, headwind, 15C, hypothermic central

Rain! This was a rough, tough day. We are now in Ont., and the terrain is up and down. The morning started with a brisk headwind in our faces, which lasted for 60 kms and fairly heavy rain, which lasted for 70 kms. It was warm while riding but very chilly when we stopped for coffee and breaks. We sat around for 1.5 hours after breakfast, hoping for the weather to break but no luck. Even though only 100 kms, we were very beat up at the end of the day.

We are basically going into mental mileage mode for the next week, until we start recognizing some of the place names. Greg saw a dead deer in the ditch, Norm thought it was too gross and said “Don’t show me that stuff again.”

The next week will be tough in Ont., but then we can see Ottawa, Montreal, and the home fires. It goes without saying (silly me) we miss our Riding Mate still in Winnipeg, and on more than one occasion when we went into a restaurant the question “How Many?” was answered with “4.”

-- The Sun god

Day 23 East Braintree, Man., to Long Bow Corner, Ont. (15 kms east of Kenora)

101 kms, 19.8 kms/hr, rain, headwind, 15C, hypothermic central

Rain! This was a rough, tough day. We are now in Ont., and the terrain is up and down. The morning started with a brisk headwind in our faces, which lasted for 60 kms and fairly heavy rain, which lasted for 70 kms. It was warm while riding but very chilly when we stopped for coffee and breaks. We sat around for 1.5 hours after breakfast, hoping for the weather to break but no luck. Even though only 100 kms, we were very beat up at the end of the day.

We are basically going into mental mileage mode for the next week, until we start recognizing some of the place names. Greg saw a dead deer in the ditch, Norm thought it was too gross and said “Don’t show me that stuff again.”

The next week will be tough in Ont., but then we can see Ottawa, Montreal, and the home fires. It goes without saying (silly me) we miss our Riding Mate still in Winnipeg, and on more than one occasion when we went into a restaurant the question “How Many?” was answered with “4.”

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 24 Long Bow Corner to Wabigoon, Ont.

143 kms, 23 kms/hr; cloudy to sunny, 18-23C, muggy

But tomorrow may rain, so I’ll follow the sun. Ah, yes, the sun! Your brain goes from yesterday “Why am I doing this?” to “This is absolutely magnificent!” An early morning (2 a.m.) thunder and lightening storm cleared the air and we met the daylight with high clouds and clearing. I don’t know what the future 500 kms will bring, but those who said northern Ontario is boring are wrong. Today was by far, with the exception of the Rockies, the highlight of the trip. Lakes everywhere, beavers, loons, herons, and at least 10 road-kill skunks. Greg rates the 3 meter paved shoulders “the best ever.” There are lots of ups and downs but none too steep.

On a personal note, it’s a long time to be away from family. You don’t think about it too much during the day, but every time you see a little dog, or roll over in bed and no one is there, you have an empty feeling. Wish they were here or at least I was with them. I know we have just started Ontario but it won’t be long for the excitement of coming home to build.

Love & kisses to all, P.S. Greg was seen taking pictures of the hi-tech guard rails . . . not your average government employee.

(editor’s comment: note the order in which one is missed)

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 25 Wabigoon to English River, Ont.

147 kms, 22.9 kms/hr. Sunny. Some cloud in pm. 14-27C

An absolutely stunning day! I know this is only our 3rd day in northern Ont., but the biking is wonderful. Lakes, woods, rivers, swamps; very quiet, serene and relaxing. Lots of sleeping hills but not enough to affect our kms/hour (may have had more of an effect 4 weeks ago). Expect to see moose or bear around every bend but no luck. Lots of road signs to look out for moose. English River (pop22 in summer; 4 in winter) – we are in the middle of nothing. Very beautiful on the river – had a swim – Norm or Greg didn’t – but it wouldn’t meet splinter requirements anyway. The trip is exotic enough, we are isolated enough, but the shrinkage requirement was no where close.

Interesting note about English River: although they are 50 kms from the time line (Central to Eastern) and since all their dealings are with Thunder Bay (Eastern) they (along with Upsula, pop 80) have just unilaterally changed their clocks to Eastern. Of course no one else recognizes this, especially Ma Bell, so we’re dinged the big bucks for Central Time. On to Thunder Bay – will go over 3000 kms tomorrow.

--------- day 19 missing - will attach with day 26 on Wednes.-ed

Day 26 English River to Shabaqua (Thunder Bay)

125 kms; 23.1 kms/hr, sunny with some white fluffys, 12-25C

The first two hours to breakfast were absolutely magical. Picture moose country, the swamp around Kemptown, multiply that by 45 kms and place a low land fog over the area with the sun breaking through every so often. Absolutely quiet.

2 milestones: past 3000 kms and across another time line – we’re now 1 hour from home. A bit snookered with logistics today – motel was either going to be 125 kms or 180 but I’m having a bit of a noise problem with my bike after the major rain/sand storm 4 days ago – possible crank – hopefully the chain. The major shop in Thunder Bay doesn’t open until 10 tomorrow and we chose the shorter day today and we’ll get up early in the morning. The ride through Ontario remains interesting because of scenery changes. Up until know, 500+ kms, hills have not been a concern. Today fairly flat with 2 nice 2km hills (3%). Body reports: Greg: neck still hurts and leg at top of calf still tender, Bruce: my bike hurts, Norm: I’m perfect – nothing is wrong with me. All taints ok but tender. Looking at the big picture (the map) looks good. Estimated arrival in Yarmouth Sept 10 or 11.

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 27 Shabequa to Pass Lake, Ont.

120 kms; 22.5 kms/hr. Total sun – no clouds 8-31C

Fill the day? This day filled all by itself. Up and ready to ride at 6:00. Forgot about the time change and could not move until 6:45 – pitch dark. 30 kms brought up to Kakabeki Falls, the Niagara of the North! Absolutely magnificent. Spent well over an hour during touristy things. Greg broke another spoke - #4. I left them behind and went the 40 kms into Thunder Bay, the CyclePath Bike Shop to check out sick bike. Bottom line: aggressive cleaning of chain, crank drive, and free wheel, basically cleared my problem and Greg, at $30, had his wheel completely respoked with heavy duty. Time lost – but confidence gained – 2.5 hrs. Peddled the remaining 50 kms to Pass Lake (60 kms west of Nipagon) stopping at the Terry Fox Memorial. Nice touch.

The hills are getting longer and more often but not much steeper, or we don’t recognize them! Lots of upgrades, I don’t gear down much anymore. Then there are the downs – at least 5 runs over 3 kms each at 55 kms/hr. Hope the weather stays good around Lake Superior for the next few days – we are having too much fun. Saw a big doe in the early morning mist. Can’t wait for the last week in Oct and the boys in Arisag. Thunder Bay typically dirty, port city. A big St. John. Nothing classy like Halifax.

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 28 Pass Lake to Rossport

140 kms; 19 kms/hr, overcast, 16-23C

Head wind, some serious all day. I think we’re back in the Rockies with the exception of Coquahalla Pass, today was our toughest day of climbing. There are hills in Ontario. From the time we left Pass Lake, and especially after Nipagon, it was steady up and down. There were at least 3 serious climbs of over 4 kms, at 5-6%, 1 of 2 km at 7% and a 5-7% of a 5 km monster. The downhills were OK but buffered by the brisk headwind. Lots of 55 kms/hr. We are beat up.

The Rossport Inn, our abode for the night, is a bit pricey but a place for lovers. Onsite kayaking, absolutely gorgeous scenery, old mid 1800 house and an unattached sauna (which the sungod entered to find our newlywed neighbours wearing the real Finish costume. Greg wondered why these things happen to me all the time, remembering Kinsman pond where sg was named.

We are told that the next couple of days are just as tough with steady ups and downs. Oh well, downwater from North Bay to Ottawa, and we’ve just got to get to North Bay.

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 29 Rossport to Marathon, Ont.

111 kms., 17/kms/hr, sunny 0 clouds, 15-25C; Brisk head wind.

Hills! Headwinds! Help! – send new legs. Note the 17kms/hr. There is the Cangamangus, Kinsman Notch, a couple of hills in the Gaspe and in the Rockies; Coquhalla, Kicking Horse, and Rodgers Pass – all individually tough climbs. But the last 300 kms from Thunder Bay to Marathon is by far the toughest 2-1/2 days I’ve ever ridden. The head wind is the factor but the terrain would count by itself.

Greg saw a moose.

To top off the day our efficiency unit is a 3.5 bedroom mobile home, $75.00, fully equipped and there is no grocery store within 5 miles. Not even a convenience store at a gas station. Norm volunteered a grocery run. I will cook, Greg will wash. Really looking forward to the Sault and civilization again. Not to mention reasonable terrain. We need a day off; hopefully the next 2 days will gain us that rest. The next section will be the first area that not having tent gear will put motel location restraints on us as to distance traveled. Shoulders satisfactory say Greg (who took a picture of a bridge today). ----

editor's note: be sure to visit Murphy's magic on the page to see each province with own map

Day 30 Marathon to White River, Ont.

94 kms, 19.7 kms/hr, sunny with fluffys, 10-25C

White River – birthplace of Winnie the Pooh and the first place since Winnipeg you can pick up Via Rail near the Trans Canada. Just a nice day. Hopefully tomorrow the same. Another 93 km flat.

Slept in for a planned late start. Breakfast at 7, tooled along at a pedestrian 20 km pace. Nice lakes and rivers, very pretty. Arrived White River at 1:30 to laze around town, do groceries, post cards, etc. As suggested yesterday, decision was made to do the 400+kms to the Sault in 4 days, 2 easy days flat and 2 tougher days as we understand the terrain. We will then continue with no days off. We could have done 3 tough days, and a day off in the Sault. Went by a serious of gold mines. Greg noted that one in particular, called the Golden Giant Mine. Turned out very nice owner lady allowed us use of her fax/phone and brought us muffins and watermelon.

Looking forward to turning left at the Sault.

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 31 White River to Wawa, Ont.

92 kms., 20.5 kms/hr, overcast, threat of thunder 12-25C humid.

Legs felt strong today as short day yesterday gave us some rest. Tomorrow, then, we should be even stronger. Locals say next 2 (105-km days) will be tough. But they all refer to the 5-mile hill at Montreal River. I’m sure there will be hills but I doubt the extreme.

The ride was pretty again today – ponds, woods, lakes, but I’m getting tired of the woods. Greg thinks he gone from the physical to the mental and now the spiritual. I feel the same, already thinking about finishing, and we still have 2 days left before making the turn at the Sault. The girls at the Tourist Bureau, nothing sexist – they’re not yet women – are the worst I’ve seen. Nice and friendly but absolutely hopeless/helpless with information. They have given wrong telephone numbers, told us of motels which were closed and motels showed up in areas where we were told there were none. But there is certainly lots of outdoorsy things to do up here and I’m looking forward to coming back with tent, canoe, dog & wife.

The thought crossed my mind today – when I peel my seat off the seat, walk into the terminal in Portland and put my trusty steed into the bowels of the ferry how long will it take my biking fitness to regress to zero before I stick the two back together on Good Friday, 2001 for the bike to the Big Stop. Or as we say every year (and don’t do it) let’s do a century next week.

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 32 Wawa to Montreal River, Ont.

112 kms, 20.3 kms/hr, cloudy/sunny, 18-23C

Milestone passed – 3500 kms passed today – Normie passed it yesterday!

The reason we peddle? Today was it! You would never have known today would be the diamond it was. At the 2 a.m. whiz the motel was being pelted by rain and 40km winds from the south – our direction of travel – the weather report said this would happen and was to clear in the morning. I went back to sleep mumbling hail marys, and I’m Baptist! I’ll try anything! At 5:30 getuptime, it was still raining and very windy but showing good signs (in my mind). Norm and Greg paced from 6:45 wanting to go in the wind and the rain. I kept saying we have a 7-hour day and it’s not dark until 9. They finally drove me nuts and at 8:30 we were off.

Within minutes we were left with high clouds and minimal wind. Our whole day spent spinning through the sweeping hills of Lake Superior Provincial Park – a real gem. This place is worth another look. Trails, beaches, canoeing, scenery; much stopping and rubbernecking all day. A highlight stop, for some, was at a commemorative to Bill Mason at the mouth of the Old Woman River. This is an area where a lot of his canoeing writing, etc., originated. It’s great to have my legs and brain back. The 2 easy 90-km days refreshed the body and there really is a new mental feeling. As Greg stated: we’ve passed the physical, passed the mental, and are now in the spiritual. I am on a new excited high, really looking forward to the next 10 days. Special thanks to Popeye, Olive, I’m selling Halifax, Mae West and Imax for their calls. Actually the Woodchopper (remember him Gord?) called at 6a.m. this morning.

Nancy W. would be impressed with some of our accommodations since she left (and is very much missed like a flagship in a convoy). Tonight we are in a cozy, fully furnished 2-bedroom cottage, right on the beach (and the other day we didn’t have enough bodies to fill all the beds in the mobile home). The surf is smashing on the cobbles. Had a dip & got smashed by a big wave. Whoopee! Hope picture came out! Fed fox in our back yard.

All we’ve heard since Nipagon was the Montreal River Hill. It turned out to be a sham. A good hill with 7 km, 4% lead-in and a 5-km, 5% down but not the be-all and end-all. Besides the down was dirt, under construction, compact, but with no speed (55 kms/hr). Just a real nice day. Will be bypassing the Sault tomorrow.

P.S. to the paddlers – amazing place here, where the Montreal River (mucho water) about 70’ wide, empties into Lake Superior surf, creating a Maytag effect. The ‘surfing’ would be tremendous. The boilermaker area is at least 100 ft wide, horizontal to the beach and at least 300’ depth from the mouth. Haystacks at least 6’ high. A bit better than the bridge in Waverley. Looking forward to my first paddle visit to the Warnica marina for tea and cookies.

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 33 Montreal River to Sault Ste. Marie, Ont.

130 kms; 19.5 kms/hr; sunny-total blue, 12-28 C

Pointing east at last! A great day of biking. Very pleased to be 15 kms on the east side of the Sault, considering the early 3x3 km (4%) climbs out of Montreal River – average speed first 15 kms was 12 kms/hr and 2 other major climbs on route away from Lake Superior and into the Sault. Slight but inconsequential head winds. The Lake Superior area is stunning. Batchawana Bay beach is 15 kms long and empty. Water is crystal and warm. Also Pancake Bay Provincial Park excellent location. If in this area, the Agawa Indian Craft store a must! Unbelievable woodcarvings, quality and quantity, hundreds of duck decoys; glass incased animals so unbelievably life-like. Wolf: $10,000. 3 wildcats @$8,000. Wolverine $8,000 – must be seen.

The leaves are actually starting to change here – scary. Not to tempt fate but the weather has been fantastic. 33 days on the road and we have had 1 rainy day, 1 45-minute shower and 2 major winds-in-the-face. Forecast for the rest of the week is sun – I did not have the nerve to ask for wind direction.

Gone to the other end of the motel star system. We are at the Scuzzy Rest, but the showers are like the Dalplex. Looking forward to the terrain the next few days and potential mileage. Now that we are out of the major climbs we feel we can average 21+ kms/hr and with riding between 6:30 to 4 p.m., are looking forward to 150+ km days. A dream in the back of our minds is a 200 kms Ottawa to Montreal Day. Would depend on a tail wind down the Ottawa River. We also stopped at Chippawa Falls today: the mid-point of the Trans Canada Hwy (Victoria to St. Johns) approx 4800 miles.

P.S. Sunset last night at Montreal River. We sat on the rocks and were part of the most outstanding sunset we were ever involved in .

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 34 Sault Ste. Marie to Algoma Mills, Ont.

148 kms; 20.7 kms/hr; overcast, 18-26C, high humidity. Milestone 4000 kms.

A basically boring day. Rolling farmlands, some backwoods and a few views of Lake Huron, North Channel. Tough little headwind all day. Very humid. No one is clear and copious. No real climbs, rolling or flat. Bottom line we are 148 kms closer to the Atlantic Ocean. Greg turned 53 today, Normie did the dishes for him. We saw a whole bunch of geese today, Norm got very excited. This may be the first day I didn’t flash . . . my Pentex. Most of the day I just dreamed of being on Lake Banook with Viking, Popeye and the Dipper and participating in the World Master Canoe/Kayak Championships. We can only wish them good paddling from afar and know they will represent the Gonzo/Warnica Marina & Social Tea Club well.

Normally the accommodations have not been much to write about, either good or bad so I haven’t. Last night may have been the worst including Tompkins, Man. Tonight is the best – a 2 bedroom cottage on the water of Lake Luzon, sandy beach, small marina. The pullout couch is actually a futon – I think I’ll take it outside and sleep on the deck.

Is everybody watching the US Open? Agassi lost – the day was not a complete waste! Now if only pompous Sampras would follow. Looks like the Yankees again – go Bronx bombers. (Ref line 1, para 1 – a basically boring day!) ---------

editor's note: no transmission Fri., Sept. 1st; resumes Sat.; latest best guess arrival in Yarmouth: Sept. 11.

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 35 Algoma Mills to Sudbury, Ont.

153 kms, 19l1 kms/hr; high cloud, 2 hrs rain, 16-18C

Brisk headwind. Brains of cement, legs of steel. My sister, the windgod, has let us down. Why would anyone choose a day like today to put out big mileage? Actually we’re very pleased with how the bodies reacted to a long day of biking into a very brisk headwind - a steady 20 kms/hr. Time in the saddle: 6:30 to 5:30 – 11 hours!

The day started with 2 hours of steady light rain (just an annoyance) the terrain was basically flat, rolling very gradually up from the lakes. What climbs there were, were a welcome relief from the wind. Did I mention the headwind!! Today was just proof of how tough our bodies have become. Any failings now could only be related to mental strain or could just be called guts.

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 36 Sudbury to North Bay, Ont.

133 kms, 20.1 kms/hr, 10C ‘til noon, overcast; light headwind.

You’ve gotta love it when 133 kms is considered a day of rest. Knowing we would be staying at Judy Hunt brother’s in North Bay, we basically just tooled along at a leisurely pace filling the day. It seems that Sept 1st has brought us cooler weather but assurances are that it will warm up. Greg was cold all day – never took off his Gore-tex.

A very uneventful day – terrain like back in Manitoba – lots of flat with rolling hills farmland – but with trees. Greg says his hands are starting to feel like feet.

Nice to be in a house with all its comforts, laundry boiling in the basement – we’ll smell ok for a couple of hours. Presently munching on quail bones and nibbling nachos. People are so kind.

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 37 North Bay to Rolphton, Ont.

151 kms, 19 kms/hr, clear, 12C, heavy land fog ‘til 9, high cloud til 3, rain til 5.

This day could be added to the top 6 tough days of the trip. For the first 130 kms, we were fed a steady supply of up and down. There never seemed to be any flat runs of more than 2 kms. There were 3 or 4 serious climbs of over 2 kmsx4-5%, and a real double-douzy out of Mattawa of 3 kmsx4% and 4 kmsx7%. It was only the last 20 kms of the day that was valley-type flat. That was when we had a cold rain. The actual toughness of the day was alleviated by 1) no wind and 2) our fitness level which allowed this to be a reasonably normal day which could not have been accomplished before the training results of the past 5 weeks.

Hopefully the next 3 days through the Ottawa River Valley to Montreal will allow for a couple of big mileage days. We deserve a flat run with a tail wind. Definite plans are to be in Montreal Wednesday night at 514, 697 7437.

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 38 Rolphton to Ottawa

221 kms, 23.3 kms/hr, sunny, cool, 11-18C

Daily double! 2 metric centuries! What a nice day! Nice? Flat terrain through the Ottawa River Valley. Nice tail wind. Cool temperatures. Perfect conditions. Carpe Diem – and we did. A long day (10 hours in the saddle, 12 hours on the road) but we did it. The kilometers just added up. Stops were minimal once we realized the potential of the day. I know it sounds offhand but it was an easy 221 kms.

As we approached Ottawa, we were thrown off the 417 divided highway by, get this, 3 OPP. One on a motorcycle, one in a squad car and one in a ghost car. We felt like big-time criminals. One said, “We’ve been tracking you.” I felt like saying, “we weren’t going that fast!” We can just see someone back at the precinct putting pins in Deep River, Pettawawa and Renfrew as we flew across Ontario. They threatened us with a $110 fine. They finally realized they were starting to loose their authority in the silliness of the moment and they allowed us to go.

A minor milestone – we went over 4000 kms. Special thanks to my original Kenduskeag whitewater canoe partner who is presently feeding us a steady protein diet and who has given us accommodation for the night in downtown Ottawa. Thanks Imbert!

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 39 MEC Ottawa to Hawksbury, Ont.

106 kms, 19.8 kms/hr, sunny, slight sidewind, 10-18C

Bit of a sleep in, then off to Parliament at 7:30 to try and find a working government employee; looking for the big guys. Took the touristy pictures and then a few more aggressive ones with our bikes up on the steps of the buildings. Good thing the gendarme isn’t still tracking us. Off to MEC to buy trinkets. Thence to a bike shop to buy a chain for sugngod’s bike (which should have been done in Thunder Bay). This of course included a new free wheel – I’m now upgraded to hyperglide. At high noon it was off to PQ.

The afternoon was spent casually peddling the Ottawa Valley. Tonight will be our last of 17 days in Ontario – a big province. We’re not sure where the summer went. We started biking at 35C and it’s now 10C. Hope to get home before it snows.

Any good recommendations for the night hike Sept 15 or 16? See you there.

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Jour 40 Hawksbury to Montreal, PQ

75 kms (a woosie day) 20.9 kms/hr, sunny, 0 wind, 8-25C

It’s 1 pm and we’re sitting in the sun at 176 Stonehenge, Beaconsfield, patiently waiting for Robert and/or Sue to come home and let us in and offer a brewski. We are slowly dehydrating. Oh yeah! The ride this morning was extremely uneventful. A pretty ride down the secondary 342 through nice little towns, farms and big trees. The most difficult part of the 75 kms was going slow enough so as not to arrive too early. At least 4 gendarme vehicles passed us this morning – I think we are still under suspicion. We are now in Quebec and Normie, under our threat of death, has removed his Maple Leaf Shirt for our safety. Actually he should have removed it long ago for sanitary reasons!

A milestone today for some of our older Gonzos (and Greg says there are more than him) is that we went over 3000 miles. For the more modern, we will go over 5000 kms tomorrow. Spent the afternoon/evening with conversation, memories, lots of laughs, brewskis and food - much chocolate stuff. Lots of friends make life bearable. Our team mate, Nancy W., was hoping to join us in Montreal but confirmed today this was logistically impossible. The conversation felt sad like saying goodbye again. We are presently being served a cake in the shape of Vancouver to Portland . . . burrpp!

Plans are to be in Stamstead on Thurs., Pinestead Farm Lodge (Sherburns) on Fri., and Youngs in North Conway on Saturday night, and on the ferry Sunday night.

I see there’s been lots of water racing while we’ve been away with good results. Really miss the training and look forward to next Wednesday night at the Warnica Marina. Cheers love and kisses from the Belle Province.

-- The Sun god

Jour 40 Hawksbury to Montreal, PQ

75 kms (a woosie day) 20.9 kms/hr, sunny, 0 wind, 8-25C

It’s 1 pm and we’re sitting in the sun at 176 Stonehenge, Beaconsfield, patiently waiting for Robert and/or Sue to come home and let us in and offer a brewski. We are slowly dehydrating. Oh yeah! The ride this morning was extremely uneventful. A pretty ride down the secondary 342 through nice little towns, farms and big trees. The most difficult part of the 75 kms was going slow enough so as not to arrive too early. At least 4 gendarme vehicles passed us this morning – I think we are still under suspicion. We are now in Quebec and Normie, under our threat of death, has removed his Maple Leaf Shirt for our safety. Actually he should have removed it long ago for sanitary reasons!

A milestone today for some of our older Gonzos (and Greg says there are more than him) is that we went over 3000 miles. For the more modern, we will go over 5000 kms tomorrow. Spent the afternoon/evening with conversation, memories, lots of laughs, brewskis and food - much chocolate stuff. Lots of friends make life bearable. Our team mate, Nancy W., was hoping to join us in Montreal but confirmed today this was logistically impossible. The conversation felt sad like saying goodbye again. We are presently being served a cake in the shape of Vancouver to Portland . . . burrpp!

Plans are to be in Stamstead on Thurs., Pinestead Farm Lodge (Sherburns) on Fri., and Youngs in North Conway on Saturday night, and on the ferry Sunday night.

I see there’s been lots of water racing while we’ve been away with good results. Really miss the training and look forward to next Wednesday night at the Warnica Marina. Cheers love and kisses from the Belle Province.

-- The Sun god "If it can't be done, it doesn't exist."

Day 41 Montreal to Stanstead (Que/U.S. border)

148 kms. 20.9 kms/hr. Sunny, 8-27C, some headwind

OPP/QPP dragnet. We’re still being tracked on the big board. Looks like Interpol may be next. After Robert dropped us off on the east end of the Pont de Champlain (since, being good guys, we knew bikes weren’t allowed on the bridge) we proceeded to tool out the #10 divided highway towards Magog. We had gone no more than 30 kms when Officer Maurice came behind us – siren and lights flashing. We immediately went into our choir boy demeanor pleading everything from ignorance to insanity. After realizing it was Tim Horton time, he got back in his car and sent us on our merry way – again down the #10 to get off at the next exit for our trip. Not wanting to cause an international incident, we got off..... 3 exits later. Now the big question: what will we do on the #55 south from Magog to the US border. We assumed we weren’t allowed on it but decided if we didn’t see any signs saying we couldn’t, we would. We were relieved, at the on ramp, that the sign we saw was a big icon of a man walking and an icon of a bike with a big red line through it. We assumed this meant you can’t walk your bike but were allowed to ride it, and immediately zipped on to the 55.

There were no further incidents but we understand the Vermont State Troopers have “real” guns. Decision on the Interstate 93 in the morning. The ride itself was not easy but very enjoyable. It’s nice to be back into the mountains and we are really looking forward to the Greens in Vermont and our beloved Whites in New Hampshire. There will be some great climbs around St. Johnsbury in the morning.

Accommodation tonight at a B&B (a first time for Greg) beautiful old big house (high class – I fit right in) nice older lady, everything just so - $25.00 per person breakfast included. I would highly recommend to anyone in the area – Stanstead is a beautiful town. On to “the” farm in Franconia tomorrow. Haven’t been there for a couple of years. Talked to Kathleen on the phone last night. Look forward to listening to Robert tomorrow night.