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I thought I'd post to say that I spent last week in the Tobeatic Wilderness Area. Four of us did a seven-day wander with all our world on our backs, lake hopping over the granite barrens below Fifth Lake Flowage down to Buckshot Lake, and then down the Shelburne River to the Low Landing on Lake Rossingnol. Looks to be a pretty healthy ecosystem up there on the barrens. The spectacular erratics, eskers and dry bogs unlike any country I've ever encountered before. On the wildlife side, we saw ribbon and red-bellied snakes. Lots of frogs. The most interesting mammal signs were large cat tracks (likely bob cat), deer tracks, coyote scat, a porcupine in a tree overhanging the river, beavers, otter, and, near Lake Rossignol, a good long close-up gander at a big black bear. The bear was on the shore and we were in the canoes, and that was just fine with everyone involved. The bear was in no hurry to run away, and as we drifted past it kept standing up on its hind legs in the rhodendra to look us over one more time. It was quite an exciting five minutes. And the birds! Red-tailed hawks, osprey, barred owl, and lots of songbirds -- my favorites being the song sparrows, parula warblers, hermit thrushes, tree swallows, and little flycatchers that seemed to be everywhere. Noteworthy flowers were painted trilliums, star flowers, lambskill, last year's indian pipe stalks, violets, white ladyslippers, pitcher plants. Too many others to mention really. The heath, lichen and rhodendra were amazing. Nice to see bigger white pines too, and lots of tamarack larch and red maple. Blackflies were light. I never put fly dope on at any point during the trip and was only bitten a few times. We saw no other humans during our entire trip until we reached the Low Landing. There was, however, a huge bronze Canadian Heritage River plaque below the carry at Granite Falls which I found a little intrusive and ironic, telling me that where I was was 'important', as if the evidence before my eyes was not enough. I refused to read it and moved on. The carries were long, punishing, and beautiful. I was using am 85 lb 1970s Chestnut wood & canvas canoe with a traditional straight centre thwart, so the longer carries were a bit hard on my neck and shoulders. A rolled up flannel shirt helped a little. The need to rest gave me an excuse to put the canoe down and look around at the rocks, plants and trees. I dreamed of a lighter boat during these carries, but I was glad for its strong oak gunnels, heavy-weight canvas and cedar ribs when I made a stupid mistake lining the boat through the rapids below Irving Lake, hung up the bow, had the stern swing into the current, and in trying to correct this with the line swamped it and almost had the force of the river bend the swamped canoe in two over a rock. For a few minutes there I thought we'd be walking out to the woods without it. We frantically pitched the gear out and freed it quickly. Although I broke a few ribs (the canoe's, not mine) and warped it out of shape, the canvas was sound and we were back in business quickly. Tough old thing. It'll be in the dry-dock this winter for some top-side repair, I guess. Anyway, the Tobeatic is an astonishing place. If you ever have a chance to get into the heart of it, do. Don't be afraid of the carries. They are rough, hard work, but they are easily overcome with a little determination and mental toughness and their beauty is a balm you will carry with you for the rest of your days. Andrew Steeves Wolfville, NS PS -- Nice to be back on the home range. This morning I canoed on the Gaspereau River head pond at White Rock, danced with my beaver, checked in with the phoebes, wished good morning to my kingfishers, gossiped with the bald eagle and was snubbed by Mr. & Mrs. Mallard.
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