Atlantic Illumination Entertainment Lighting
(Image: Photographic Clamp Light)
AIEL Shop Tips
WORKLIGHT
MAINTENANCE
Here is a complete procedure describing
how to maintain the clamp lights described
in the Kits section of this website.
It may appear that worklight maintenance is intuitive or even
unnecessary. Yet, they are regularly used and often
abused, then frequently neglected until they must
be replaced. Despite their low price, anything
that keeps costs in check is a good thing.
_________________
INFORMATION HERE MAY
NOT BE REPRODUCED
WITHOUT PERMISSION
FROM THE AUTHOR ©
Be aware neither Atlantic Illumination, nor its owner
and employees will be responsible for any problems
encountered as a result of following or not following
the procedures here. This is only a guideline. You
must decide the suitability of the steps given, and
be responsible for the results of your own work.
Topics
Preliminary
Inspection
Disassembly
Repair
Reassembly
Final Testing
Adjustment
Preliminary
Worklights are very basic and often taken for granted or ignored
compared to stage lights when it comes to maintenance or overhaul.
However, they are an important fixture for any backstage worker or
tech and should be maintained. Now yes, these fixtures are cheap to
replace, but appropriate ones can't always be easily located. Besides,
a Frugal Tech endeavours to make repairs, not buy replacements.
For those of you that may wish to print this page and use it to
check off each step as it is completed, a Text Version is available.
You should make the following available:
* Selection of Replacement Parts
* Screw Drivers
* Pliers
* Multimeter
* Crimp Tool and Connectors
* Soldering Iron or Gun
* Solder
* Emery Cloth
* Steel Wool
* Electric Drill or Buffer
* Brass Wire-Brush Attachments
(Small and Large Diameter)
* Tooth Brush
* Electrical Tape
* Heat Shrink
* Heat Gun
* Flat Black Spray Paint
* Rayon or Cotton Batting
* Light, Spray Oil
* Silicone Spray
* Methyl Alcohol (Methanol) or Rubbing Alcohol
* Lacquer Thinner
* Rags
* INSPECTION
Take a close look at your worklights; revealed may be distorted,
bent, or broken reflectors, and/or cracked sockets, missing or broken
clamp hardware, non-functioning switches, and/or stiffness of
operation.
Choose the lights to be repaired or overhauled and move to the next
section.
* DISASSEMBLY
1. Lamp: Remove and store in a safe place. If it is broken, pliers
may be required to grip the edge of the lamp's base if that is all
that remains. Be sure to clean out any remnants from the socket
and reflector.
2. Reflector: Unmounting the reflector usually requires that it be
turned and pulled, but there may be a bracket that must be
loosened so it can be taken off. Alternatively, some might have
set- or mounting-screws that will have to be removed.
Realise that reflectors on some models of these lights will not
be able to be removed. This will be addressed farther on.
3. Socket: This is commonly attached to the spring clamp with a
two-piece, semi-circular bracket. This bracket grips a ball
fitting by using a bolt and wingnut to adjust tension. Remove all
these, but leave the ball fitting attached to the spring clamp,
unless it's broken and must be replaced.
* REPAIR
1. Socket: Look at the internal threads and center contact (the
button) of the socket. Buff off tarnish with a small wire brush
attachment in an electric drill, being cautious not to catch the
button's edge which might bend it. Lubricate the contacts with
silicone.
If the center contact is one of the "hinged" tab types, you may
need to raise it slightly with a screw driver or hook tool after
buffing. This will make for a better connection between it and the
lamp base. Do not bend too far; it is possible to snap it off.
Replace the socket if the metal contacts are damaged or so
tarnished they cannot be brought back to a shiny finish.
Replacement will also be required if the outer housing is split or
chipped and shows exposed metal.
Be sure to observe electrical polarity when rewiring: In
Canada, the hot (black) lead goes from the center contact of the
socket, through the switch, and onward to the brass screw of the
plug. This is internally connected to the polarised plug's
short-height prong.
2. Switch: Work the switch. If it's stiff, put light spray oil or a
lubricated contact cleaner into it, and work it some more. This
will usually result in smoother operation. Wipe off any excess
product. If it remains difficult to operate and/or if electrical
contact is intermittent, replace the switch. This is not always
easily performed due to design -- you may have to replace the
entire socket/switch unit.
If replacement is not feasible or economical, consider
bypassing the switch by bridging its wiring points with a short,
soldered wire so that the light will always come on as soon as
it's plugged in. This will be fine for one-nighter shows where the
light will be unplugged after each gig. If using the lower wattage
of recommended lamps as discussed in Worklight Kit, their service
life is so long, power consumption so low, and the heat generated
is so minimal, that they could be left on even for a few days. At
20 cents a kilowatt hour, the cost would be 5 cents per light per
day.
However, energy is a product not to be wasted in the 21st
century. Using the 20-cent figure just given, one should realise
that a dozen of these lights burning for a total of 50 days a year
would cost $120. That money would buy boxes of replacement lamps
for these fixtures. So unplugging these lights after each show is
the better option. If this task sounds tedious to you, reserve
these always-on lights for one-nighter gigs. Mark each bypassed
version so they can be discerned from the switched ones.
3. Electrical Cord: Inspect the line cord, especially where it
enters the socket and the plug. Because of stress at these points,
this is where insulation becomes compromised. Repair any
abrasions, frays or splits with electrical tape or preferably,
heat shrink. Should you replace the cord use #18, flexible lamp
cord in black colour. Think too, about extending its length from
the manufacturers' typical 1.5 or so metres to 2 or 2.5 metres to
better reach those out-of-the-way outlets backstage.
4. Electrical Connector: Buff the prongs of the plug with a wire
brush. Coat with a light oil. If the plug is damaged or has loose
prongs, put on a new one. When replacing, use a polarised plug and
observe proper wiring polarity. (As stated earlier, the hot side
of the circuit should run from the socket's center contact through
the switch to the connector's brass screw.)
If you find that the prongs slip too easily out of outlets,
take two pairs of pliers, one needle nose, the other snub nose.
Grab one prong at a right angle near the plug body with the needle
nose pliers, and then use the snub-nosed pliers to grab the rest
of the prong straight on about one third of the way from its end.
Gently and slightly twist. Repeat with the other prong, being sure
to twist in the same direction.
Never do this operation with just one pair of pliers; that
would stress the point where the prong enters the plug body and
cause looseness. For the same reason, never splay the prongs apart
from one another.
5. Continuity Test: Use the `ohms' setting of your multimeter to
confirm a continuous electrical path from plug to socket while the
switch is in the `on' position. `Zero' ohms should be the reading
unless the switch is set to `off', whereby it will read
"infinity". Check the neutral path, as well. Unless a double-pole
switch has been used (unlikely), the reading will always be `Zero'
regardless of switch setting. Diagnose and fix any problems.
6. Shorts Test: Test for shorts between hot and neutral, and from
each conductor to the metal reflector and spring clamp. If the
meter reads anything but "infinity", there are problems. Diagnose
and fix before moving on.
7. Reflector: Reshape the reflector if required, and pound out any
dents. A ballpeen hammer is good for the latter. Tap gently; these
reflectors are usually made from fairly thin aluminum. Should the
reflector have a bayonet (push & turn) mount, pay close attention
to it. If its edges are not flat and regular, the reflector will
be loose and easily dislodged. Re-form these with the hammer and
snub-nose pliers as required.
Clean the reflector using a toothbrush to get into small
grooves. Spray both inside and out with flat black paint. Follow
the instructions on the can regarding optimal temperature and for
re-coating. The reason for painting the inside of the reflector is
to better contain the light so backstage spill will be at a
minimum.
Consider using an aluminum primer if this is the first time the
reflector has been painted. Use several thin coats, not just one
thick one. Rushing to finish the paint job by applying only one
thick coat will see it more easily scratched or worn off. Set
aside to dry between coats.
An alternative might be to do the outside with semigloss paint
for a more professional look. However, when it gets scratched it
seems to appear worse than a scratched flat-black finish.
If the reflector has been unable to be removed, complete the
remaining steps in this section except for lubrication and oil
protection. When returning to paint the captive reflector, insert
rayon batting into the socket to completely cover the button and
threads. Mask other parts such as the socket and spring clamp,
then paint as above.
8. Bracket and Hardware: Restore the curves to the semi-circular
bracket halves if they have become bent. Remove any tarnish with a
sanding sponge, emery cloth or steel wool. Replace damaged, broken
or missing hardware, and buff the bolt, wingnut and any remaining
hardware to a shiny finish. Wipe all metal with an oily rag to
provide a thin coating of protection.
9. Spring Clamp: Buff the clamp to be shiny, and if the clamp has a
coil spring located near the gripping end, clean and lubricate it.
Tighten any hardware. If there are rivets, tighten them by placing
one end on a hard surface such as an anvil and tapping the
opposite end. A pin punch with a broad tip may be required to
access those ends that are partially obscured. Tap until the rivet
is tight enough to prevent movement, unless it is a pivot point.
In the latter's case, snug the rivet enough to improve tolerances,
but not so tight that movement is impeded.
10. Grippers: Repair the grip surfaces. These might be pads, or
rubber/vinyl tubing. In some cases, one may be able to get away
with rejuvenating them if they are not split. Use lacquer thinner
on a lint-free rag to wipe the pads or tubing until dirt is
removed and a new surface has been exposed. Do this in a
ventilated area, and protect skin and eyes from the thinner.
Severely damaged tubing-style grippers will need to be
replaced. If none is available, consider using thick heat shrink
as a replacement. It can be slipped over the remaining grippers to
hold them in place and provide extra padding, or can be used by
itself. Having proper grip surfaces makes for a better-working
fixture -- a non-slip light stays focused.
11. Gooseneck: If your worklight has a gooseneck, lubricate it with a
bit of light spray oil. Wipe off the excess. Flex the neck; listen
for squeaks and check for stiffness of operation. Lubricate the
offending section and recheck. Remove excess oil.
12. Lamp: Buff the base of the lamp with steel wool or a brass wire
brush to remove tarnish or corrosion. Apply silicone to the
threads and button. Clean the bulb using alcohol.
It is suggested that the lamp employed be an 11- or 40-watt,
non-coloured incandescent. Compact Fluorescents are too fragile
and extend beyond the reflector. LEDs may be used if they are not
too bright, can be contained wholly within the reflector, and have
a 3000-degree, or lower, colour temperature. For more thoughts on
this, see Backstage Blues.
* REASSEMBLY
If a captive reflector has not yet been painted, do so now
following
the procedure in the Repair section. Set it aside over night so that
the
paint will be both dry and cured. Then, start the reassembly process
below being careful to preserve your new paint work.
1. Clamp and Bracket: Loosely reassemble the spring clamp and its
socket bracket. Note that there may be a square opening on one
side of the latter into where the underside of the bolt head fits.
Ensure the bolt comes through from that side. Consider adding
split and flat washers against the wing nut. They will make for an
easier and more secure head adjustment.
Be consistent as to which side gets the wingnut so that all
fixtures will be the same. Because it's a right-handed world, it
is suggested that the wingnut be on the right as viewing the light
from the front. The reason is that most backstage lights will be
mounted and adjusted from this position.
2. Socket: Into the loose halves of the semi-circular bracket slip
the socket and tighten the wingnut enough to hold it in place. A
final positioning will come later.
3. Reflector: After the last coat of paint has dried and cured,
restore the reflector to the socket if it had been removed
earlier.
* FINAL TESTING
1. Electrical: Replace the lamp. Test that it works by plugging into
an outlet and that the plug seats firmly with no play. If there
are issues, go back through the steps to determine what to do to
complete the work.
2. Hardware: Inspect the light to be sure all hardware has been
reinstalled, and that it is in the correct location and
orientation.
* ADJUSTMENT
1. Ball Fitting: Position the ball's location by using a screw
driver to widen the coil loop ahead of where you want to push the
fitting. If the light is to be clamped to a wall, the best
position is likely to be center, which is how these lights already
come from the factory. If it is to be clamped to a table's edge,
position the fitting toward one side of the coil down near its
bottom. This allows the reflector to be angled down more on to the
table.
2. Tensioning: Finally, adjust the firmness of the socket bracket on
its ball fitting with the wing nut. It should be loose enough for
one to be able to set the angle of the light as required, but
tight enough to maintain that position during usage.
You now have a reliable, functioning worklight at
the ready to assist techs and your clients backstage.
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Reference:
http://AIEL.chebucto.biz/ShopTips/MainWork.html